This week, was to say the least, the most people that I think Boquete could fit into town other than the Flower Festival held earlier this year. Were they here to party? Not really, most were here as what I call the Escapees. Boquete does not have any parades, floats or parties but we do host the population that escapes Panama City and other towns where they do celebrate.
So if you missed it this year, here is what to expect next year if you want to come to celebrate.
Carnival is one big party, to put it simply. It is a festive holiday that is customarily held immediately before Lent, which is in February. Carnival usually involves a public celebration (street party) and parade through the streets of the center of town. Party goers typically dress up in elaborate costumes that keep very little of the body concealed.
Historically, carnival is celebrated by Roman Catholic societies due to its religious origin. In present day, Carnival is more viewed as a party for all races and religions. But more often than not, the regions that support carnival celebrations are dominated by Catholic society.
Brazil has made carnival internationally renowned and is the most popular location in the world to celebrate carnival. But today many cities and regions worldwide also celebrate carnival with elaborate parades and huge parties. Rio de Janeiro stakes claim to the largest carnival in the world, but according to some sources, Panama’s carnival is the second biggest in the world.
Carnival in Panama
Every year on the four days leading up to Ash Wednesday, Panama’s carnival takes place. Though sometimes the party starts a little earlier on Friday and always ends on Tuesday. Panamanians refer to carnival as “los carnavales”, and the entire country partakes in the party. All though it is not an official holiday, the country basically shuts down and whole communities join in the celebration.
Carnival has been celebrated in Panama since the early 1900s. While the Panamanian roots of the festive celebration lie in Panama City, the fun-filled holiday has spread to all corners of the country. Panamanians put their inhibitions aside and let the party spirit take them over.
While small quiet countryside towns lay dormant throughout most of the year, carnival awakens the inner party spirit and most towns join in the celebration. Many towns create a competition between the “upper street” and the “lower street”, each which host their own party. Basically the town is geographically divided down the middle to form the two competing sides. Each side chooses their own carnival queen and competes to out match each other with amazing floats, extravagant costumes and group dances.
The Panamanian carnival also attracts national and international musical talent. It is common that towns will set up multiple concert stages throughout the designated carnival area.
A unique facet about Panama’s carnival are the “Cuelcos”, which are large water trucks that blast music and get surrounded by people dancing in the street while being sprayed with water. Be prepared to get wet as many people arm themselves with water balloons and buckets and are ready for an all out water fight. It is all done in good fun, and the majority of people welcome getting drenched in the hot tropical sun.
Las Tablas
Panama’s carnival celebration has become popular thanks to the exuberance and magnitude of Las Tablas, a small town in the Los Santos Province on the Azuero Peninsula. The provincial town, about 130 miles west of Panama City, is considered by many Panamanians to be the best place to celebrate carnival. The Las Tablas inter-town rivalry between Upper Street and Lower Street is fierce and the atmosphere is folkloric and energetic.
The competition between the two streets is based on whose costumes and floats are the best. Judges take into consideration the costumes quality and the creativity of the floats. Additionally, the carnival queen from each street is part of the judging process. Furthermore, the different groups arrange their own parades and side activities, including live concerts, food stands, games, and fireworks displays.
Panama City Carnival & Schedule
Panama City, the largest city in Panama and the capital, hosts the largest carnival celebration. The city shuts down the major costal avenue, Cinta Costera, to allow for 1,000s of party-goers and a large parade. The outdoor street partying usually lasts until midnight, when the nearby clubs and bars begin welcoming the masses for more drinking and dancing until the early morning hours.
Friday: On the Friday before Ash Wednesday, the foundation is set for the four festive days to come. First the Panama City carnival queen is selected, as well as her accompanying entourage/attendants. The Queen symbolically reigns over daily parades and activities.
Starting on Friday and throughout the following four days, many of the city’s hotels join in the celebration and sponsor related events, either by putting on a concert, hosting dance parties or serving food.
Saturday: Beginning in the early afternoon, 1,000s of people start to fill the street and the bordering park areas of the Cinta Costera. The afternoon and evening play host to a series of events, including live bands playing salsa, reggae, reggaetone, and Panamanian folk music. The atmosphere is transformed from an ordinary street into an enormous street party where everyone is drinking, dancing and socializing.
Sunday: Around the middle of the day Sunday, a parade of thousands of women dressed in Panama’s national costume called pollera ensues in the Cinta Costera.
A pollera is a large one-piece handmade skirt decorated with colorful embroidery. Polleras are generally accompanied with family heirloom jewelry, such as gold and pearl mosquetas and tembleques. The very expensive outfits are worn by groups of women in the parade and by those who simply stroll through the crowd showing off the elaborate outfit.
Monday: Although Monday may not host a special event, nevertheless it is just as exciting as the other days. With streets full of party goers having a great time, a small parade takes place and people enjoy the day dancing and drinking.
Tuesday: Tuesday has the biggest carnival celebration and the largest parties in Panama City. It is known in English as Fat Tuesday and also Shrove Tuesday. The parade hosted on Tuesday easily out does those of previous days. Huge decorated floats parade down the Cinta Costera full of costumed groups from all walks of life.
If you are going to choose only one day to experience the party, Tuesday is your best choice. Get ready for hours of dancing and don’t stop until you see the sun rise.
Wednesday: Traditionally, carnival comes to an end on Ash Wednesday when a sardine is symbolically buried at the beach and marks the start of fasting for Lent.
Other Carnival Celebrations
Basically ever town in Panama hosts their own carnival celebration. Though, some are much bigger and better than others. Las Tablas is probably the most well known and probably gets the craziest. Panama City attracts the most amount of people and is sure to impress. Other smaller, but still fun, carnivals are found in the towns of Penonome, Chitre, Ocu, La Villa de Los Santos, Aguadulce, Bocas del Toro, and Colon.
Lodging during Carnival
Be prepared to pay a premium for your hotel room during carnival, especially in Las Tablas where hotels fill up very fast. It is recommended to book your hotel room in Las Tablas many months in advanced, and prices usually double during the celebration. The sheer abundance of hotel rooms in Panama City will make the booking process much easier. However, no matter where you plan to stay during the carnival celebration book in advance. But do not worry if you don’t get your first choice, after all you are going to be doing a lot more partying than sleeping in your hotel room. Just remember, have fun, be safe, and dance till you can’t dance anymore.
I hate carnival with all the trash, noise, crowds so I avoid it at all costs.