While South American nations like Brazil and Colombia have earned worldwide acclaim for their high levels of avian diversity, North America is no slouch when it comes to top-tier birdwatching destinations either. Case in point: Panama, a verdant Central American country that offers a particularly diverse array of landscapes in spite of its small size. During a visit, guests can marvel at all sorts of colorful passerines alongside dazzling hummingbirds and soaring raptors—and to discover all three in one fell swoop, it’s best to head to Chiriquí.
Measuring in at just under 6,500 square kilometers, this sprawling province lies in the westernmost reaches of Panama, serving as a Pacific coast alternative to the neighboring tourism hub of Bocas del Toro. During a visit, guests can discover a wealth of waders along the mangrove-filled southern coast, but most birders tend to focus on the forested highlands found in the northern reaches of the country, with Mount Totumas Cloud Forest offering some of the finest birdwatching opportunities in all of the region.
After a lengthy drive along an unpaved mountain road, guests can arrive on property grounds and marvel at the on-site hummingbird feeders, with garden emeralds, violet sabrewings and purple-crowned fairies being just a few species that might make an appearance—but that’s barely scratching the surface of all that the lodge has to offer. There are over thirty kilometers of hiking trails to explore across its 161 hectares, with many species wandering over from the bi-national Parque Internacional La Amistad that’s found nearby.
During a hike, visitors can marvel at colorful creatures like the flame-colored tanager, red-legged honeycreeper and fiery-billed aracari, but for many birders, the resplendent quetzal serves as a particular megatick. A member of the trogon family, this dazzling bird is known for its striking appearance, with both males and females displaying long, iridescent emerald feathers. And beyond birds, visitors can also spot mammals like the mantled howler monkey and kinkajou, while evidence of jaguars and other cats has been discovered in the recent past via Mount Totumas Cloud Forest’s trail camera system.
In between birding sessions, Mount Totumas Cloud Forest also offers its fair share of cozy amenities that make it well-worth visiting even for casual ecotourists. While accommodations span from The Cabin—a rustic lodge that comes equipped with a full kitchen and multiple hammocks—to the six-meter-tall Tree House, guests are likely to spend the bulk of their time at the Bellbird Lodge. In addition to serving as a top spot for hummingbird watching, this cozy cabin also offers plush suites and a top-tier dining program, with many of the dishes crafted using ingredients from the on-property garden. Beyond the Bellbird Lodge, guests can also take a dip in the local hot springs or sample fresh coffee that’s grown at the property’s nearby farm—but of course, that’s just scratching the surface of all that Chiriquí has to offer.
Once you’ve had your fill of birdwatching, there’s a wealth of activities to enjoy around the nearby community of Volcán. For visiting gastronomes, the community offers a particularly idyllic dining experience in the form of Restaurante Cerro Brujo, a charming dining venue that’s been operating for decades in the eastern reaches of the town. Upon arrival, visitors are welcome to stroll along the estate’s verdant gardens before sitting down for a meal, with dishes like oven-roasted lamb, herb-infused duck confit and sopa de mondongo all crafted with fresh ingredients harvested by chef and owner Patricia Miranda Allen.
Further west, coffee aficionados can swing by Ceriana Café to indulge in a coffee tasting in full view of the region’s towering volcano, while those in search of a more urban escape should be sure to book a stay at the Hotel Ciudad De David, a polished property in the heart of Chiriquí’s largest city. While the venue comes equipped with more than 100 cozy guest rooms, visitors can also pay a visit to STYLO, an on-site dining venue that offers a diverse array of dishes spanning from siu mai to Galician-style octopus.
Panamanian destinations like Soberanía National Park and Isla Iguana draw birders in droves thanks to their rich avian diversity, but for anyone hoping to experience the lush beauty of the nation’s cloud forests, Chiriquí is tough to beat. In addition to classic Latin American species like the collared trogon and yellow-throated toucan, the province also offers its fair share of fascinating highland inhabitants ranging from the large-footed finch to the long-tailed silky-flycatcher—and to sweeten the deal, the region’s hospitality industry is top-notch as well. As autumn begins to set in across the United States, there’s no better time than the present to begin planning your next cold weather getaway, and for a truly memorable trip, don’t miss out on the pristine beauty of Chiriquí.