In Panama, jaguars in fragmented territory have clashed with local ranchers and livestock. Now a National Geographic Explorer has a plan to turn the embattled species and ranchers into unlikely allies.

What started as a leisurely walk through the rainforest has transformed into a punishing slog as the terrain grows more rugged and steep. At times, we’re almost blinded by the jungle’s density, but a few windows in the impenetrable growth provide a view of the horizon.  

We’re following members of the Indigenous Emberá as we hack our way into the Darién Gap. Located in Panama’s southernmost reaches, it’s an isolated region both pristine and notorious—the smuggling of drugs and humans has become so intense that U.S. officials are considering sending troops there.