For years, Karla Cruz has searched New York City for dishes reminiscent of her childhood in Panama, like sancocho, tamales and carimañolas, but there was nothing that emulated those foods she loved. So she promised herself that if there was ever an opportunity, she’d open her own Panamanian restaurant.
In New York City, where the national dishes of so many countries are available, Panamanians living here have been surprised at the scarcity of restaurants serving their cuisine. This challenge has inspired restaurateurs to fill that gap in recent years.
“I wanted something that would transport me back to Panama,” said Ms. Cruz, 45, in Spanish. She opened KC Gourmet Empanadason the Lower East Side in 2019 and El Carnaval next door in 2021.