{"id":28139,"date":"2020-02-26T09:49:56","date_gmt":"2020-02-26T14:49:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/?p=28139"},"modified":"2020-02-26T09:49:56","modified_gmt":"2020-02-26T14:49:56","slug":"heart-dark-roast-journeying-deep-panama-try-1000-coffee-bean","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/heart-dark-roast-journeying-deep-panama-try-1000-coffee-bean\/","title":{"rendered":"Heart of Dark Roast: Journeying Deep Into Panama to Try a $1000 Coffee Bean"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Those sunrise views may be reward enough for some, but for me, after groggily rolling out of bed at 2:30 in the morning to begin ascending the volcano in time for sunrise, my reward is the reinvigorating cup of coffee in my hand, the delicate and floral flavors of that Geisha, a labor of love for the generations of passionate and dedicated families whose farms dot the landscape below. That fortuitous caffeine fix is no coincidence, of course. The sunrise expedition and the coveted coffee I sipped from were part and parcel of the 3rd annual La Cosecha, an event founded by food writer-turned-entrepreneur Jorge Chanis that celebrates the country\u2019s prestigious coffee culture and the allure of the special slice of earth from which it springs.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The fincas of Boquete and the surrounding Chiriqu\u00ed province are home to the Geisha coffee bean (Jake Emen for InsideHook)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Those sunrise views may be reward enough for some, but for me, after groggily rolling out of bed at 2:30 in the morning to begin ascending the volcano in time for sunrise, my reward is the reinvigorating cup of coffee in my hand, the delicate and floral flavors of that Geisha, a labor of love for the generations of passionate and dedicated families whose farms dot the landscape below. That fortuitous caffeine fix is no coincidence, of course. The sunrise expedition and the coveted coffee I sipped from were part and parcel of the 3rd annual La Cosecha, an event founded by food writer-turned-entrepreneur Jorge Chanis that celebrates the country\u2019s prestigious coffee culture and the allure of the special slice of earth from which it springs.<\/p>\n

How the Geisha Coffee Bean Arrived in Panama<\/strong><\/h4>\n

The Geisha bean hails from Ethiopia \u2014 where all undomesticated coffee originated \u2014 though it was never known as a standout variety before finding its way to Costa Rica and then Panama. \u201cGeisha is the Panamanian version of the Malbec grape,\u201d says Roberto Brenes of Auromar Geisha, and a founding member of the Panama Geisha committee. \u201cMalbec was always looked at as being for a blend; the word means \u2018bad mouth.\u2019 Then Argentina took Malbec and look at what happened, it\u2019s a huge grape there. It\u2019s the place and terroir, and that\u2019s what happened with Geisha.\u201d<\/p>\n

Consider that Panama is a tiny producer by global standards, accounting for less than one percent of the world\u2019s production. \u201cWe are a footnote in the world coffee statistics,\u201d Brenes says.<\/p>\n

Yet the country rakes in more 95-point grade coffees than any other. \u201cOur region is so small but pound-for-pound, we are leading the world,\u201d says Wilford Lamastus, Jr., the fourth-generation producer from record-breaking Lamastus Family Estates, himself a two-time Panama Brewers Cup Champion.<\/p>\n

What Geisha needed was a chance, and the perfect mix of conditions, including Boquete\u2019s soil, an ideal elevation range between approximately 1,500 and 1,750 meters, and all the other just-right factors which add up to a specific region\u2019s terroir. \u201cThe microclimates in Boquete are just incredible, and the volcanic soil is amazing for growing coffee,\u201d says Stefan Muller of Caf\u00e9 Don Benjie.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve been telling people for years \u2014 it\u2019s not just about the Geisha, it\u2019s about the terroir here, too,\u201d says Justin Boudeman of Longboard Specialty Coffee.<\/p>\n

From Overlooked to Record Book<\/strong>s<\/h4>\n

Geisha was brought to Panama because it was resistant to coffee rust, an invasive fungus. However, its production still wasn\u2019t prioritized due to its low yields, the result of producers being unwilling to put in the intensive work required of it.<\/p>\n

\u201cGeisha is a low-producing variety,\u201d Muller says. \u201cIf you prune it right though, it produces a lot. But that takes a lot of work, which not everyone was interested in doing.\u201d<\/p>\n

That is until a twist of fate led a few producers, notably Hacienda La Esmeralda, to begin showcasing the variety amidst the emergence of specialty coffee in the 1990s. Enter Daniel and Rachel Peterson, whose grandfather started the family\u2019s coffee farm in the \u201970s. \u201cWe were still in the era of farmers handing over a bag of coffee as a commodity product, not knowing what it tasted like,\u201d Daniel Peterson says.<\/p>\n

La Ni\u00f1a storms in 1999 wiped out the bulk of their coffee plantings. One of the scant few survivors was a Geisha, and now finding themselves dependent on the variety, Esmeralda began focusing on its production, eventually moving plantings to the higher elevations now considered in the sweet spot for its growth.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy first impression was that: \u2018Wow, I screwed up!’\u201d Peterson says of the first new vintage, back in 2004. \u201cIt was just so different,\u201d he continues, noting flavors of jasmine and peach syrup.<\/p>\n

Such flavors are now signatures for Geisha, which is known as floral and fruity, uniquely showcasing both a soft, nuanced nature alongside robust depth and a long-lasting finish. \u201cIt\u2019s not a coffee-type coffee, it\u2019s a tea-type coffee,\u201d Brenes says.<\/p>\n

Despite Peterson\u2019s misgivings, Esmeralda\u2019s Geisha took first place in the 2004 Best of Panama competition and auction, and ultimately ended up resetting the entire field. \u201cWe had no idea at the time how it would change the industry, and it started here,\u201d Peterson says. \u201cIt put Panama on the map simply because of the innovative spirit that people have here. We all feed off each other.\u201d<\/p>\n

Esmeralda set a record at Best of Panama with a price of $601 per pound in 2017, broken by Lamastus Family Estates with $803\/lb. in 2018. The Elida estate from Lamastus shattered its own record, reaching $1,029\/lb. in 2019, while outside of the Best of Panama auction, producer Ninety Plus has made private sales of its coffee for several times more, including a record-setting sale of its Geisha in Dubai at a price of $10,000\/kg, or roughly $4,500\/lb.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\u201cGeisha was brought to Panama because it was resistant to coffee rust, an invasive fungus.\u201d (Jake Emen for InsideHook)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Is It Worth the Price of Entry?<\/strong><\/h4>\n

As with any luxury product, that\u2019s up to the person laying down the cash. \u201cIt\u2019s like a luxury watch \u2014 you can have a $3,000 one or a $100,000 one,\u201d Lamastus Jr. says.<\/p>\n

In the case of Geisha, the difference between a $30\/lb. coffee and a $100\/lb. or $1,000\/lb. coffee begins with ratings received from a competition such as Best of Panama. \u201cThe competition is what starts to pull the market up,\u201d Lamastus, Jr., says. \u201cA $1,000 coffee might just have a slight difference, a point or two in grades, a little bit better, but by winning the competition, that\u2019s what certified it in the market.\u201d<\/p>\n

That also means that at select quality roasters and shops across the U.S., you can find excellent Panama Geisha available for prices that don\u2019t require loans or down payments. Prices may only continue to rise though, particularly when you consider it\u2019s still early days for the coffee-as-luxury-product market in comparison to a consumable such as wine.<\/p>\n

\u201cCoffee as a luxury item is really in its infancy,\u201d Boudeman says. Back to wine, consider the glitzy and tourist-friendly visitor centers from Napa to Bordeaux or Tuscany, the endless array of glassware, and the effort that restaurants put into their programs, as but a few points of comparison indicating how much room there still is for the luxury coffee market to grow into itself.<\/p>\n

\u201cGeisha has this intangible aspect, and all of the coffees on the specialty market have gone up with it \u2014 it increased the value of specialty coffee on the whole,\u201d Lamastus, Jr., says.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe bar for coffee, the standards, they\u2019re going up every year,\u201d Peterson says. \u201cPeople expect excellence from Panama.\u201d<\/p>\n

When you take a sip of Geisha, you\u2019ll probably agree\u00a0that Panama is delivering on those massive expectations. I might never buy a $1,000 pound of coffee back home, but I do know that the day after I returned from Panama, I made a few cups in my French press and it was the best coffee I can ever remember drinking at home. Sure, I noticed its delicate profile and its floral nuances, but even more so, I appreciated all of the hard work and passion that made it possible, and I thought of the people who grow and prepare that coffee, people who want nothing more than to share it with the world. You can\u2019t really put a price on that.<\/p>\n\n

\n

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