{"id":21826,"date":"2017-12-18T14:51:36","date_gmt":"2017-12-18T19:51:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/?p=21826"},"modified":"2017-12-18T14:51:36","modified_gmt":"2017-12-18T19:51:36","slug":"size-matters-small-boat-cruise-offers-close-panama-costa-rica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/size-matters-small-boat-cruise-offers-close-panama-costa-rica\/","title":{"rendered":"Size matters: Small-boat cruise offers close-up of Panama, Costa Rica"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/birds.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21827\" src=\"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/birds.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"920\" height=\"613\" srcset=\"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/birds.jpg 920w, https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/birds-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/birds-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>It was easy to forgive the scarlet macaws on a high branch making me feel severely under-dressed, and the spider monkeys tossing sticks at me. I had not expected, however, a long-billed bird intent on inciting anger issues.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sync-inline-overlay\">\n<p>\u201cThat sound you hear,\u201d guide Luis Vega told us, \u201cis a toucan trying to make us mad because we can hear him but not see him.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"hdnce-e hdnce-item-47193\"><\/div>\n<p>Sometimes, it\u2019s difficult to not take the jungle personally.<\/p>\n<p>Although when you\u2019re with a small group in a big forest, and there\u2019s less of a buffer between you and the place, taking it personally becomes kind of the point.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/safari-voyager.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21828\" src=\"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/safari-voyager.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"590\" height=\"392\" srcset=\"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/safari-voyager.jpg 590w, https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/safari-voyager-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 590px) 100vw, 590px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The hike was part of a weeklong voyage exploring Panama and Costa Rica aboard the Safari Voyager, a 62-passenger excursion vessel built to provide more personal experiences not typically available on mainstream trips aboard mega-ships. The plan included kayaking around tiny islands, trekking into remote jungle preserves, snorkeling quiet blue-green waters and, especially on this trip, spotting the winged wildlife so plentiful here (even the ones with issues).<\/p>\n<p>I had taken big-ship cruises before, but was eager to find out whether size matters \u2014 smaller boat, smaller ports, smaller tours \u2014 especially in Central America, where the flora, fauna and culture seem better suited to be experienced up close and, well, personal.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>I\u2019d been weighing a Costa Rica visit for the better part of a decade, but the big vessels transiting the Panama Canal generally offer no more than a single stop in the country. So when small-ship company UnCruise Adventures said it planned to sail Safari Voyager along a route that included a Panama Canal passage and a run up the Pacific coast to Costa Rica, my family signed up, not knowing quite what to expect.<\/p>\n<div id=\"BP300\" class=\"ctpl-duplicated-ad\" data-google-query-id=\"CKDt_7SmlNgCFUHI4wcdcPgI3w\"><\/div>\n<p>On our first full day aboard the Safari Voyager, a new acquaintance said this was the third sailing he and his wife had taken with Seattle-based UnCruise.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe\u2019ve done the big party ships a bunch of times, but we\u2019re done with that,\u201d said Dan Close, a San Diego forensic accountant. \u201cWe want to be active. We want a more intimate experience. And we\u2019re willing to pay more because it\u2019s worth it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The passengers on our voyage appeared to be in their 60s, with a few exceptions \u2014 including a handful of twentysomethings and our near-teen daughter, Sophia \u2014 and, in general, reasonably fit. Some passengers preferred slower walks or had physical limitations. The common motivation among those we talked to: to see and learn about wildlife, in the forest and the ocean. Most sought the personal attention that comes with a higher ratio of crew to passenger. We were eager to walk, kayak and snorkel.<\/p>\n<p>Not a priority: dress-up dinners, buffet lines, the \u201cmarch of the baked Alaskas\u201d and art auctions.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>After transiting the canal\u2019s massive locks and Lake Gatun, we woke up to a flat horizon of water, with the canal far behind us and no land in sight. After breakfast the expedition leader, Chris Mata, discussed planned afternoon skiff tours around the Iguana Island wildlife refuge. Jenna, the onboard masseuse, warned that anyone who had overindulged on the cocktails (included in the fare) should consider postponing their massage (also included).<\/p>\n<p>Which prompted a passenger\u2019s question: \u201cWhat is \u2018too many\u2019 cocktails?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Despite its name, Iguana Island\u2019s most visible inhabitants \u2014 at least from a skiff circling the shore \u2014 are the magnificent frigatebirds circling lazily overhead and perched on the rocks. The females are black and white; males distinguish themselves by proudly inflating a brilliant red sac on the lower neck to attract females.<\/p>\n<div id=\"CP300\" class=\"ctpl-duplicated-ad\" data-google-query-id=\"CJ3t_7SmlNgCFUHI4wcdcPgI3w\"><\/div>\n<p>Pelicans and crabs foraged, and we spotted an osprey ferrying its catch back to the nest. A pair of American oystercatchers delicately pranced on the rocks with bright red bills open, searching for a meal.<\/p>\n<p>Our initial foray into the life of birds and other wildlife established the routine for the trip\u2019s remainder: a patter of questions from passengers (usually \u201cWhat is that?\u201d), followed by identification and explanation from the guides, who were well versed in the relevant facts about the flying fauna.<\/p>\n<p>This particular week\u2019s sailing was designed for bird enthusiasts and included lectures and guided walks with Karen Leavelle, a researcher and conservationist who lives and works on southwest Costa Rica\u2019s Osa Peninsula.<\/p>\n<p>One morning, she led a small group of us on a walking exploration of Isla Coiba, an uninhabited volcanic island that holds the distinction of being Central America\u2019s largest island, a national park and a longtime penal colony.<\/p>\n<p>No sooner did our skiff reach shore than we were admiring a pair of bare-throated tiger herons \u2014 the name fully captures the expanse of bright yellow on their graceful necks \u2014 preening and nuzzling in a palm tree. They were followed in quick succession by a pair of green mealy parrots whizzing by in flight, a red-legged honey creeper, golden-naped woodpecker and other birds with names as colorful as their plumage.<\/p>\n<p>It was a far cry from the overrun cruise ports in the Caribbean, where \u201cwildlife\u201d often relies more on Jell-O shots.<\/p>\n<div id=\"DP300\" class=\"ctpl-duplicated-ad\" data-google-query-id=\"CJ7t_7SmlNgCFUHI4wcdcPgI3w\"><\/div>\n<p>That afternoon found us moored at the nearby crescent of white sand known as Granito de Oro \u2014 literally \u201cgranule of gold\u201d in Spanish. After a morning of looking upward for birds, this islet, populated by hermit crabs by the thousands and shaded by a pocket of palm trees, was a welcome and well-suited spot for looking down for sea life.<\/p>\n<p>In the waters around the islet, we snorkeled among the blue-barred parrotfish, yellow puffer fish and striped Moorish idols that darted through the coral beds. Later, aboard standup paddle boards, my daughter Sophia and I raced alongside a green sea turtle until it submerged from view.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>\u201cWelcome to Costa Rica!\u201d the ship\u2019s loudspeaker blared at us on Tuesday morning. After a breakfast of a broccoli-and-cheese souffle and fruit, we watched pods of spotted dolphins racing the ship as we motored toward the Saladero Ecolodge, set on 480 acres of rainforest and accessible only by boat.<\/p>\n<p>Vega, one of the ship\u2019s guides, accompanied us on a leisurely shoreline kayak paddle, where we spotted a snowy egret walking, stilt-like, beside mangroves. Roaring howler monkeys serenaded us but kept out of sight.<\/p>\n<p>Later, in a walk through the trees, we saw a variety of birds: Cherrie\u2019s tanagers with their bright splash of crimson against black, tiny common tody-flycatchers with yellow breasts, and an almost neon-green pair of orange-chinned parakeets.<\/p>\n<p>One morning near dawn, Vega led us on a birding hike in the Campanario Reserve on the Osa Peninsula. (It turned out I had left my camera battery in the stateroom, but Vega radioed the ship and, five minutes later, one of the skiff pilots handed me the battery \u2014 an unlikely bit of service on one of the big ships.)<\/p>\n<p>The hike led us to a waterfall, but once again it was the forest residents rather than the forest itself that captured our attention: a pig-like tapir sleeping under a tree, the angry spider monkeys jabbering and tossing sticks, and, from an unseen hideout, the toucan with issues.<\/p>\n<p>After lunch on board, we moored off of nearby San Josecito, where we opted for a brief self-guided beach walk. My wife and I followed the beach trail through sparse foliage, then heard screeching and saw flashes of red and blue tearing through the branches just ahead.<\/p>\n<p>And there they were: a magnificent pair of scarlet macaws perched on a limb, offering a private show. A highly personal touch.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>Friday marked our last full day with the Safari Voyager and its crew. Our last stop before the trip concluded in Caldera was the Cur\u00fa Wildlife Refuge, a privately owned parcel on the Nicoya Peninsula.<\/p>\n<p>After six days exploring, it felt like I\u2019d seen just about every species the dense forest canopy was willing to reveal, from glacial-paced sloths to white-faced capuchin monkeys, who alternated between sleepy indifference and outrage (some hurled coconuts). Yet there, on our last hike, something unexpected inched toward us, a gray-green species known as pickupus Nissanus.<\/p>\n<p>In layman\u2019s terms, a truck.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe haven\u2019t seen one of those all week,\u201d one hiker observed.<\/p>\n<p>It was true. We had walked, kayaked and snorkeled, instead of boarding buses. Shrinking the ship seemed to have expanded the horizon \u2014 or at least reduced some of the buffer between us and the place. Because of the difference, it\u2019s a place worth taking personally.<br \/>\n\n<div class=\"wpcf7 no-js\" id=\"wpcf7-f16536-o1\" lang=\"\" dir=\"ltr\" data-wpcf7-id=\"16536\">\n<div class=\"screen-reader-response\"><p role=\"status\" aria-live=\"polite\" aria-atomic=\"true\"><\/p> <ul><\/ul><\/div>\n<form action=\"\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21826#wpcf7-f16536-o1\" method=\"post\" class=\"wpcf7-form init\" aria-label=\"Contact form\" novalidate=\"novalidate\" data-status=\"init\">\n<fieldset class=\"hidden-fields-container\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7\" value=\"16536\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7_version\" value=\"6.1.6\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7_locale\" value=\"\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7_unit_tag\" value=\"wpcf7-f16536-o1\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7_container_post\" value=\"0\" \/><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"_wpcf7_posted_data_hash\" value=\"\" \/>\n<\/fieldset>\n<p><B><I>Sign Up for our 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