{"id":21378,"date":"2017-10-22T13:50:40","date_gmt":"2017-10-22T18:50:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/?p=21378"},"modified":"2017-10-22T13:50:40","modified_gmt":"2017-10-22T18:50:40","slug":"panama-chef-using-rain-forest-ingredients-transform-fine-dining","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/panama-chef-using-rain-forest-ingredients-transform-fine-dining\/","title":{"rendered":"The Panama chef using rain forest ingredients to transform fine dining"},"content":{"rendered":"

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At a fine dining restaurant in Panama<\/a> City, customers are tucking into kalalu<\/em>, a tropical fern with an earthy flavour, blanched like an asparagus, and brushed with olive oil and grilled. Next on the menu; boda<\/em>, a palm flower that looks and tastes like baby corn, pickled and wrapped in banana leaf tamale–<\/em>style.<\/p>\n

From wild red rice grown in the isolated Dari\u00e9n province, to the flor el\u00e9ctrica herb on the slopes of the country\u2019s tallest volcano, unusual rainforest plants are a critical part of the menu for 33-year-old Panamanian chef and restaurateur Mario Castrell\u00f3n. His restaurant Maito<\/a> has undertaken the mission of exploring Panamanian biodiversity, while also bringing indigenous and traditional ingredients to the fine dining scene. While Panama City\u2019s most popular restaurants were serving Italian pastas and Peruvian ceviches<\/a>, Castrell\u00f3n has been incorporating pixbae<\/em>, a starchy peach palm fruit, and \u00f1ame<\/em>, a root vegetable, into his menu at Maito.<\/p>\n

Amazingly, it has worked. In fact his success has been such that last year Maito became the first Panamanian restaurant to enter the prestigious Latin America\u2019s 50 best restaurant list<\/a>. He has not only managed to \u201copen the doors\u201d for other chefs, as one restaurateur, Jos\u00e9 Olmedo Carles of Panama City\u2019s Donde Jos\u00e9<\/a> put it, but he is trying to change the way high class restaurants source their ingredients from indigenous farmers.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was hard for [other chefs] to understand what he was doing, but he never gave up,\u201d says Olmedo Carles. \u201cNow there are a lot of us working with these kinds of ingredients.\u201d<\/p>\n

Castrell\u00f3n\u2019s mission has become the spark for, and a huge part of a growing \u201crainforest to table\u201d movement<\/a> across Latin America, exploring how the forest\u2019s myriad ingredients can be sourced sustainably and benefit the indigenous communities. In Peru, the chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino sources a fermented yuca paste called aj\u00ed negro<\/em><\/a> from a Bora community in the Amazon for his restaurants, which has transformed their economy. In Bolivia, the restaurant Gustu is working with the Wildlife Conservation Society to help Tacana hunters<\/a> earn an income by sustainably harvesting the meat and selling the skin (to Gucci, no less) of caimans<\/a>.<\/p>\n

As Castrell\u00f3n started to work with Panama\u2019s flora and fauna to develop his menus, he found that indigenous farmers were losing out in the production and distribution process: much of the produce was lost or sold at low prices because of improper distribution channels. Intermediaries would take most of the profits by the time the produce reached his restaurants, and the farmers saw little revenue.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe indigenous people are always left behind or looked down upon,\u201d says Castrell\u00f3n. \u201cFrom my point of view they are the real owners of this country. They have survived here without using up all of the natural resources. I just want to help empower them so they can live better lives.\u201d<\/p>\n

Since 2013 Castrell\u00f3n has been working with NGO Nutre Hogar who are engaged in a project to help prevent child malnutrition in Ng\u00e4be-Bugl\u00e9 comarca, a territory in the highlands of Boquete, near the Costa Rica border. It is one of three indigenous provinces in Panama. The NGO approached him after he tweeted his frustration at the \u201cmiddleman\u201d situation, and suggested that he could buy directly from micro-producers. The NGO works with Castrell\u00f3n\u2019s restaurant group in a programme where he purchases, at fair prices, whatever extra crops are being grown or collected, eliminating the middlemen and keeping profits in the community.<\/p>\n

Growing organic greens, herbs and fruits, as well as more sustainable farming practices has all been part of Nutre Hogar\u2019s teaching practice, as well as collecting indigenous rainforest plants like kalalu<\/em> and boda<\/em> that are now popular in Panama City\u2019s growing set of locavore<\/a> restaurants. This is especially important in a country that has some of the highest malnutrition rates among indigenous communities across the region<\/a>, with 19% of indigenous children facing chronic malnutrition<\/a>, according to the United Nations\u2019 Food and Agriculture Organization.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a group effort,\u201d says Castrell\u00f3n. \u201cThrough Nutre Hogar they get them the tools and energy to make it happen. For me it is an honour to have their produce in the city and show Panama and the world how lucky we are to have these organic, natural and unique products.\u201d<\/p>\n

While families in the area typically live on US$26 (\u00a321) a month, many of those who are working with Nutre Hogar have seen their incomes jump to as much as $150 (\u00a3123) a week. So far the programme has been effective and is expanding: Castrell\u00f3n has supplied recipes to a solar powered bakery in the community of Kankint\u00fa, another area where Nutre Hogar is working. These recipes are based on using the overproduce to bake bread made with yuca<\/em> (a root vegetable) or flavoured with cilantro<\/em> (coriander).<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was a great help he gave me and my family,\u201d says Margarita Arias, one of the 19 women who run the bakery. She credits it for changing her economic situation. \u201cBefore I had nothing \u2013 no money; every month coming up short.\u201d<\/p>\n

As roads are poor within the territory, consistent deliveries of produce to Panama City and Castrell\u00f3n\u2019s restaurants can be an issue. \u201cI was recently supposed to get an order of produce, but because of rain in the mountains it hasn\u2019t come for two weeks,\u201d he says. He prepares for lags in deliveries by buying more than he needs when it\u2019s available or pickling some of the plants so they can be preserved.<\/p>\n

A few years ago it was almost impossible to find Panama\u2019s native flora and fauna in restaurants. Since Maito came along other restaurants have been inspired to do the same, like Intimo<\/a> in Panama City, Panga<\/a> on the Azuero Peninsula and Receta Michil\u00e1<\/a> in Bocas del Toro. As the interest in native foods has developed, so has the work with indigenous groups, who hold the knowledge of the native ingredients.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe organic products market in Panama is now very big,\u201d says Vanessa Vicu\u00f1a, the executive director of Nutre Hogar. \u201cWe are hoping to add many more families to be able to supply to bigger brands that are now interested in these products.\u201d
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      At a fine dining restaurant in Panama City, customers are tucking into kalalu, a tropical fern with<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[10,12,247,241,39,248,34,33,62,42,219,11,249,243,7,246,244,44],"class_list":["post-21378","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-articles-panama-perpsective","tag-bocas-del-toro","tag-boquete","tag-boquete-boca-chica-real-estate","tag-boquete-real-estate","tag-buenaventura","tag-casco","tag-casco-antiguo","tag-casco-viejo","tag-coffee-in-panama","tag-estate-homes-in-panama","tag-move-to-panama","tag-offshore-real-estate","tag-panama-offshore-real-estate","tag-panama-papers","tag-panama-real-estate","tag-relocate-to-panama","tag-rum-in-panama","tag-travel-to-panama"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Panama chef using rain forest ingredients to transform fine 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