{"id":15886,"date":"2016-02-23T10:03:53","date_gmt":"2016-02-23T15:03:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/?p=15886"},"modified":"2016-02-23T10:05:40","modified_gmt":"2016-02-23T15:05:40","slug":"the-other-other-white-meat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/the-other-other-white-meat\/","title":{"rendered":"The Other Other White Meat"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"cobia\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Thanks a hat tip to my friend Ron for this National Geographic article.\u00a0 This is a cool story.<\/p>\n

Ever heard of Cobia? Meet tomorrow\u2019s fish\u2014and a new way to farm that one man wants to bring to a coast near you.<\/p>\n

Brian O\u2019Hanlon has asked to leave the doors off our helicopter. He wants our pilot to fly low over the rain forest of Panama and out over the ocean. But once we get to the other coast of this country that seems barely wider than someone\u2019s finger, the pilot is nearly lost. He turns around, terrifyingly, and asks through our headsets where he should go next. O\u2019Hanlon is sitting in the backseat and keeps saying the same thing while jutting his arm forward. \u201cTodo derecho,\u201d he says, in Spanish. He is telling the pilot to go straight.<\/p>\n

Even in the air, O\u2019Hanlon knows the way by heart to a farm that he built from nothing, out in the middle of nowhere. Eight miles off the coast of Panama on the Caribbean side (most people visit the Pacific coast) we start to see net domes peeking out of the water. They\u2019re like icebergs\u2014most of their mass is underwater. Inside the domes are some 600,000 fish living out their days in the warm Caribbean, eating real food, drinking real water, and nudged by real currents. O\u2019Hanlon is next to me, pointing down and grinning. Later that day he will tell me three times that unlike conventional aquaculture farms where fish swim in their own you-know-what, his fish never see the same water twice.<\/p>\n

Below us happens to be the largest open-ocean fish farm in the world. Aquaculture isn\u2019t new. Since the days of the Chinese Shang dynasty humans have raised fish to supplement the unpredictable yield of the sea. The idea has always been to corral fish in tanks or pools. At some point, people just got tired of taking a boat out right before dinner.<\/p>\n

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Off the Caribbean coast of Panama, fish farmer Brian O’Hanlon is building a large-scale hatchery to support a new type of offshore aquaculture.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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O\u2019Hanlon\u2019s farm, which is part of a company he founded called Open Blue, wants to buck 4,000 years of human innovation and farm fish back in the ocean. He says that raising an animal in its natural habitat means it will be healthier and taste better and, with the right technology, grow far more efficiently. Some have said he\u2019s pioneering a new form of aquaculture. O\u2019Hanlon is on his way to shipping 250 tons of fish each month, a respectable haul for a midsize company under ten years old. Every few days, planes take what once swam in his underwater cages off to Asia, Europe, and North America. He started the operation in Panama in 2009, and last year, for the first time, demand exceeded supply.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Brian O’Hanlon, founder of Open Blue Sea Farms, visits his fish cages eight miles north of Panama. Every day, divers swim in the cages to monitor the health and growth of the cobia.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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Panama might seem a strange place to hatch a global idea. The country is smaller than New Jersey and reliant on the United States government to keep its currency stable. But Panama\u2019s unique geography with easy access to two oceans makes it cheap and convenient to move feed in and fish out. The government of Panama also welcomed O\u2019Hanlon in a way the U.S. wouldn\u2019t. Harsh regulations, stiff environmental opposition, and \u201cnot in my backyard\u201d complaints from coastal communities made his idea unworkable off the coast of Florida or South Carolina, both of which are home to large American ports. The U.S. would give him a permit, but only for a few years. Then he\u2019d have to invest in boats, processing facilities, and distribution infrastructure. \u201cWhat we\u2019re trying to do takes a lot of capital and commitment,\u201d he said. \u201cYou need to be able to think long term about this, at least 20 years into the future.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The other reason he chose Panama is the real hero of the story: cobia, the fish he\u2019s farming. The first time I heard of cobia was in Josh Schonwald\u2019s book The Taste of Tomorrow<\/i>. Schonwald spent a few years asking people what new ingredients chefs might demand in the future and how farmers would experiment with new crops. Fish we eat now, like salmon and Chilean sea bass, are largely inefficient to produce. With fewer and more expensive resources, Schonwald concluded, farmers would turn to other species that could convert feed to protein faster. Consumers, in turn, would change their tastes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Pods that float in the open ocean are designed to hold an average of 35,000 fish each. A full-grown fish can command $50 to $60 wholesale.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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Jason Treat and Matthew Twombly, NGM Staff; Shelley Sperry. Source: Brian O\u2019Hanlon, Open Blue <\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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He arrived at cobia as the holy grail. Unlike salmon, it goes from egg to 11-pound (5-kilogram) fish in about a year (salmon takes three). Unlike tilapia, it is sashimi-grade fish that can be used for high-end sushi. Unlike carp, it doesn\u2019t taste fishy.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Salmon, tilapia, and carp are the world\u2019s top farmed fish. Most aquaculture occurs in Asia, where overfished oceans have pushed fish farming inland, into concrete pools and tanks pumped with oxygen. The feed used is finely crafted to maximize nutrition. The measure of aquaculture efficiency is the feed-conversion ratio, or FCR: How many pounds of food does it take to yield one pound of meat? For tilapia and most carp species, the ratio is 1.6 to 1. Salmon are among the sleekest, coming in at 1.2 to 1.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Cobia has a way to go. Over the past ten years, cobia\u2019s FCR has dropped to around 2 to 1. O\u2019Hanlon is confident it can one day rival salmon\u2019s. But what makes cobia prime for farming now is that it doesn\u2019t mind population density. Confining fish often stunts growth. In a tank the size of a Jacuzzi, Open Blue can raise 15,000 fish, each the size of a paper clip. In three days they\u2019ll double in size. Eventually they\u2019ll be moved to the ocean pens. A year from now each will cover the entire rack of someone\u2019s barbecue.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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\u201cThis is how I look for sharks,\u201d O\u2019Hanlon says. We\u2019re on the deck of his boat, floating a few feet from one of the cobia cages. O\u2019Hanlon drops to his knees, then lies flat on his stomach and dunks his face in the water. He pushes his head deeper and deeper until it looks as though he\u2019ll fall overboard. Then he does. When he comes up, he wipes the water from his eyes. \u201cYeah, there\u2019s a pretty big bull shark down there,\u201d he announces to the boat. I ask him if he\u2019s serious. He looks at me wondering if I\u2019m serious. He raises his eyebrows as if to say, dude, it\u2019s the open ocean, and there are half a million fatty fish down there. Of course I\u2019m serious.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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O’Hanlon’s favorite part of running his aquaculture farm is swimming with the fish. He believes that open-ocean farming leads to healthier, stronger, and faster-growing fish.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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But we dive anyway. Some 30 feet below the surface we swim through a small zipper in the nets. The opening is big enough for a human but small enough to avoid a mass jailbreak. In the cage, the fish swim in circles around a giant pole, day and night. They\u2019re confined in the sphere, but the current of the water gives the effect of a huge treadmill. Compared with egg-laying hens that remain sedentary their whole lives, this form of protein has to keep moving just to stay still.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Underwater, the fish just inches from my eyes were nearly two feet long\u2014enough to command around $50 wholesale. But O\u2019Hanlon\u2019s scientists want the fish slightly bigger, which will take just a few more months. They\u2019ll eventually reach a size of diminishing return, where new food doesn\u2019t yield much new weight.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Down at the bottom of the net, O\u2019Hanlon is lying on his back, 80 feet deep, staring up through the water column. He looks almost as if he\u2019s fallen asleep underwater, at peace with what he\u2019s created, basking in the silhouettes of his moneymakers. O\u2019Hanlon describes diving with his fish as \u201cmy church.\u201d It\u2019s quiet and peaceful, like a luxury swimming pool rather than the open ocean. The water is almost 80 degrees. It\u2019s exactly what someone saw when naming the color Caribbean blue.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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From millions of eggs, only a few thousand fish survive. Juvenile cobia are raised in indoor tanks until they are large enough to be transferred to the open ocean.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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One night over beers, O\u2019Hanlon explained to me the mechanics of fish death. The way fishing boats kill fish\u2014letting them flop around in a cooler\u2014is actually the worst way to end a salmon. When a fish is stressed (and what could be more stressful than suffocating with a hook in your mouth?), it releases lactic acid, the same stuff that makes your muscles tight after a hard workout. It makes meat pungent and stiff.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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You want to kill the fish without warning. So O\u2019Hanlon\u2019s farm uses a relatively new technique in which\u2014\u201cand I realize this sounds crude,\u201d he says, \u201cbut it\u2019s not\u201d\u2014giant pipes suck the fish from the water and a hammer immediately knocks the fish on the head. Then a blade cuts a main artery under its chin. From happy life to oblivious death in about three seconds.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Cobia brood stock produce the eggs for all of Open Blue’s fish. Scientists monitor the offspring to ensure genetic diversity.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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In fact, fish can be too fresh. Most animals go through rigor mortis immediately after they die, which makes their muscles tighten. It takes several hours or even days for tissue to relax again. When the cobia arrives in Miami the day after it was stunned, and then at a grocery store the day after that, the muscles have begun to loosen. By the time you get around to cooking the fish four days after it died, it\u2019s just reaching its prime.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The UN\u2019s Food and Agriculture Organization recorded rising demand for cobia back in 2006. But by 2008, numbers had bottomed out. A high-quality fish wasn\u2019t suited to a global recession. Several years later, in 2012, I started looking for cobia at restaurants and supermarkets. Asking a chef sometimes felt like holding a secret key, as if the name was proof I was discerning about seafood. Cobia\u2019s main problem has been marketing. Few people have heard of the fish, let alone stocked it. This was supposed to be the fish of the future, not the fish of hipsters and elites.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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O’Hanlon sees cobia as a sustainable fish that grows quickly and has a mild flavor. Despite the fish’s large size, it can thrive in dense populations.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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Even if growing methods are sound, cobia\u2019s struggle comes down to market share. The acclaimed International Boston Seafood Show\u2014where business deals are inked in squid blood\u2014is jokingly called the Boston Salmon Show. If fish had a monarchy, salmon would be king. The annual salmon-industrial complex is worth just under $10 billion. The fish has the widest portfolio of ways it\u2019s produced: caught in oceans and rivers, farmed on land, and farmed in the wild. Wild salmon has become the most elusive kind. Farmed salmon produced through selective breeding or by tweaking its genes accounts for two-thirds of the salmon the world eats. A cobia trying to squeeze into the salmon market is like a 12-year-old trying out for the Boston Red Sox. A few years ago marketers had the idea to nickname cobia \u201cblack salmon.\u201d Why they came up with black\u2014the fish is mostly silver, and the meat is white\u2014no one seems to know.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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It\u2019s a chef\u2019s dream to find something that\u2019s reliably sourced year-round and grows quickly and sustainably.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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Fishmonger MJ Gimbar<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Finally one day in February I found a restaurant not far from my house in Washington, D.C., that occasionally served cobia. Like any other restaurant, it depended on the catch and whether the restaurant could stock the fish. So I waited. Finally one day I called; it had just gotten a shipment of cobia\u2014by sheer coincidence, from O\u2019Hanlon\u2019s farm in Panama. I went with my colleague Spencer for lunch. I ordered pan-seared cobia with gnocchi, pine nuts, and roasted cauliflower. Spencer had cobia fish tacos. The meat was thick, almost like cutting through beef. It was lean but juicy and took on the flavor of an accompanying cream sauce. I asked Spencer if he\u2019d order it again. He paused and said yes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The restaurant\u2019s fishmonger, a man dressed in black and named MJ Gimbar, described cobia as a \u201cgood eating fish\u201d that has potential for market growth. \u201cIt\u2019s a chef\u2019s dream to find something that\u2019s reliably sourced year-round and grows quickly and sustainably,\u201d he said. \u201cThe only thing now is to get people to eat it.\u201d The bigger questions may be whether cobia can overcome people\u2019s emotional attachment to salmon and Chilean sea bass, even if those fish are more costly and environmentally demanding to produce.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Although cobia is a little-known species native to mid-Atlantic and Indo-Pacific waters, aquaculture may hold the key to producing it in larger quantities and selling it worldwide.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

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Our final night in Panama, O\u2019Hanlon offered another opportunity to try cobia, this time cooked on a barbecue on the beach. Someone brought a bucket with two fish, each the length of a man\u2019s torso. We laid one down on a picnic table and stared at it together. I asked O\u2019Hanlon if he could ever imagine these guys swimming in suspended cages off the coast of California.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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\u201cThat\u2019s the dream, man,\u201d he said, nodding. He said he had to show that the model worked before he\u2019d be able to scale up with cobia and other fish. Success would also invite competition. \u201cYou work and work at something, and then one day, somehow it\u2019ll happen.\u201d Then he looked up and asked no one in particular how to say \u201cknife\u201d in Spanish.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thanks a hat tip to my friend Ron for this National Geographic article.\u00a0 This is a cool story.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15886","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-articles-panama-perpsective"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Other Other White Meat - Blog and Newsletter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/panamaadvisoryinternationalgroup.com\/blog\/the-other-other-white-meat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Other Other White Meat\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Thanks a hat tip to my friend 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